A group of brave and daring motorcyclists and 4×4 enthusiasts organized a trip through Tunisia with the aim of reaching the high sandy peaks of the Great Eastern Erg.
The entire logistics organisation left Barcelona to load the motorbikes and vehicles onto the Gartaghe ferry to Tunis, the capital, on Thursday 19 February. They had a meeting with the group of motorcyclists the following day on the island of Jerba.
After the complicated Tunisian customs procedures, well, you know, import procedures, currency exchange, queue for the boat to arrive, etc. When we left, a Tunisian driver dented our trailer, they drive too close, anyway…
After the trailer was repaired, we luckily found the broken parts and continued south. Before the Bac on the Island of Jerba, that is, in the ferry queue, we had to wait more than an hour. Fortunately, the service is continuous, so we took advantage of the opportunity to have a quick sandwich for dinner and fill up the bikes with petrol, thus gaining some time.
Around midnight, we arrived at the hotel. The group was waiting to see their bikes, all of which arrived in perfect condition and without any problems. The hotel looked like something out of a fairy tale, it was half a village with its narrow streets and all the furniture restored. It is indeed a charming place. The food is also very good.
First stage: Jerba Island – Ksarguilane:
During breakfast we had a small meeting to discuss the stage and the meeting points for the following reports and we loaded the GPS with the reference points.
Some of them took off at a fast pace and the route continued along the fast tracks, first flat and then mountainous, of Tunisia. The motorcycles go faster than the cars. At lunchtime they were an hour ahead, but oh well…
After the second report in Matmata Nouvelle and in a small palm grove we had our first picnic of the trip. The top quality “materials” and “drinks” made this meal a prelude to what the trip would be like in its entirety, that is, tremendous fun.
At dusk, the route becomes more desert-like, shortly before reaching the Ksarguilane camp, we refuel the motorcycles with canned gasoline, almost double the normal price, but the lack of supply in that area forces us to do so.
At dusk, the route becomes more desert-like, shortly before reaching the Ksarguilane camp, we refuel the motorcycles with canned gasoline, almost double the normal price, but the lack of supply in that area forces us to do so.
Second stage: Ksarguilane – Ksarguilane I:
In the morning, not long, by the way, we set off, first on a fast track until we reached the first dunes, the massif can be seen in the distance, it seems small, but it reaches all the way to Algeria (hundreds of kilometres of dunes). We reached the first metres of sand and the motorbikes and cars began to have the natural difficulties of the first day, the group went deeper into the sea of dunes with more or less suffering, the sand was hungry and it was eating at everyone. The most experienced ones came out of the traps better, but everyone fell into them. At midday and after lunch, with part of the group resentful of the morning’s effort, we decided to return, also through the dunes, until we reached the camp. Our friend Ari Vatanen, with a rather limited car, took to the air in the dunes quickly, and except for a couple of snags, a fifteen-minute tantrum, during the whole trip, he drove like a true Tuareg.
As Javier’s car leaves the dunes, it makes an unpleasant noise. The differential is broken and difficult to repair.
Upon arrival, the same “routine” shower, dominoes, gin and tonic and comments about the route, sand, dunes, cars and what awaits us tomorrow?…
Third stage: Ksarguilane – Ksarguilane II:
Another morning, not very early, by the way, bikes refueled and off we went. First we went along the fast tracks to the south and then we attacked the dune massif from the outside and on this occasion the desert was generous and together with the best track of the group, it made the day a glorious stage. As we entered the most difficult dunes, one of the cars decided to return along the conventional track. In addition, Javier’s car is still in the Ksarguilane “boxes”…
After several hours of going up and down dunes, the motorcycle team decided to turn around and return to the hotel, but a little push made us dare to climb the highest and most difficult wall. Normally it is not possible, but that afternoon it was possible. We all went up, I think we climbed about three hundred meters in height on different steps, it was very adrenaline-filled for everyone. When we got to the top, the cars went down first, the descent was spectacular.
The day promised adventure, but we had to find the way to the valley and to avoid more than thirty kilometres we dared to go out through a similar wall, but more difficult to climb. We did it…
That evening the comments were different, there was more euphoria, the ego was high, the challenge was almost impossible (in fact, it had not been achieved on other occasions) and it was conquered. The gin and tonic tasted better, the game of dominoes was more lively, in short, the whisky briefing was more lively and the rest was better.
Another good news, Javier’s car was repaired at 1am, but we have a car…
Fourth stage: Ksarguilane – Matmata:
In addition to getting up a little later, some bikes without refueling, and a bike breaking down. This means that the group leaves a little later, but after a while we are on our way, back to the dunes, but less so. We spend the whole day near Ksarguilane until lunch time, just when we leave the dunes we eat in a new camp that they have built, but they don’t have food, we have to get our provisions. We go up the famous Pipe Line until we reach the town of Matmata, known for its troglodyte dwellings, dug into the mountain, in fact in the hotel where we are staying there are still some original ones.
We are finally in a conventional hotel, and we spend the night. We still have more desert stages to go, precisely the next one, which is the queen of the trip…
We have another breakdown, it can be repaired on the road, but again we go to bed very late. At one o’clock in the night I receive a call from the local mechanic, Pepe’s bike is repaired…
Fifth stage: Matmata – Douz:
We had to leave very early, Pepe’s bike was tested and it worked very well, we set off, first to refuel, then along the tracks to the point of the first report, right at the foot of the dunes. A stage of several hours in the desert awaited us, with no way back. The group was well prepared and the bikes had an advantage over the cars, until they approached the dunes, there we grouped together and together we climbed a massif of about twenty kilometres, but the sand was perfect and allowed us to pass without deflating the tyres, some riders confessed that it was the best African stage of their life. I agree, it was a beautiful stage.
We left the dunes and when we reached the fast tracks the bikes disappeared from our sight, and we did not group together until we reached the hotel door.
After a shower and a fun and healthy hammam, we spend the usual afternoon until football time, when we go to watch Madrid lose against Liverpool.
Our trip is coming to an end, but there are still some entertaining stages left.
Sixth stage: Douz – Tozeur:
Even without knowing it, it was going to be the last desert stage on motorbikes. The objective was to go around the well-known Chott el Jerid, a large salt lake. The motorbikes, on reaching Chott, went through the vicinity of the track, but crossing fields and salty surfaces. The cars took a more conservative route, since in many places the mud would inevitably trap the wheels, making it impossible to get out, even causing the loss of several hours or even days. However, the cars went through sections with extreme difficulty and with crossroads worthy of world rally drivers.
By lunchtime, the riders had built up a lead of almost an hour, and on stony and gravelly tracks, the KTMs are lightning fast…
At dusk we arrived at the magnificent Diar Cheriat hotel, a true jewel of Arabic architecture, an authentic palace, magnificently preserved and run. It is a place of incredible beauty and good service. Both the rooms and the food are outstanding.
Before dinner, general washing of motorcycles and cars, walk through the bustling Tozeur souk and to the hotel.
At night, more of the same, the domino professionals, the comments, etc.…
Seventh stage: Tozeur:
At the time of the morning meeting, there are not many people in the group, in fact the bikers arrive later and dressed as tourists…
After several questions of “what do we do?” “I think it’s okay, I don’t,” etc., we rented four 500cc motorized buggies. And we went for a ride (well, to say the least), except that we had a local guide with a quad setting the pace, otherwise…
What a fun stage around Tozeur, we arrived at the set where the Star Wars movie was filmed. On the way back and after four hours of burning adrenaline and wheels, we returned, well “floured” to the hotel, we looked like bakers…
Shower and then dinner at a top quality restaurant in the city. The food was really good, but the group’s spirit was the best. It was the last dinner together, the logistics group would be leaving on the road the next day and the pilots group would be flying, very early.
Eighth stage: Tozeur – Tunis and Tozeur – Hammamet for others:
At 4:00 a.m., the rooster crows, the drivers go to the airport to take the first plane of the morning (at 6:00 a.m.) and sleepy… Heading to Tunisia where the last day in Africa is spent (for the moment) and the next day to Barcelona… the rest of the group, by road to Hammamet to wait for the boat and to Barcelona.
Many thanks to Joan, Santi, Pepe, Demetri, Pedro, Joao, Felipe, Javier, the other Javier and Manolo, who have made a very fun group… and who have achieved levels of driving that are difficult to match, if not, just ask “the Italians” J
And as we travelers say, this end of a journey is the beginning of another…
